Dogs vs Cats · Article

The Destructive Phase: Surviving a Teething Puppy vs. a Kitten’s Climbing Craze

Raising a destructive puppy can feel like a losing battle. But before you lose your mind, understand that their chewing isn't bad behavior—it's a painful teething phase. Discover how to survive it.

The Destructive Phase: Surviving a Teething Puppy vs. a Kitten’s Climbing Craze
A teething beagle puppy chews a toy while a tabby kitten climbs curtains behind it.

Your shoes are in pieces. Your curtains look like they lost a fight with a tiny ninja. And you’re standing in the middle of your living room wondering what you signed up for.

Sounds about right. Whether you’re raising a puppy or a kitten, there’s a stretch where it feels like your home is being slowly dismantled from the inside. But here’s the thing — the destruction coming from a teething puppy and the chaos coming from a climbing kitten aren’t the same problem. Not even close. Understanding the difference is what gets you through it without losing your mind or your favorite furniture.

The Puppy’s Mouth Problem

Let’s start with the numbers. Your puppy entered the world with no teeth, grew a set of 28 baby teeth, and is now in the process of replacing them with 42 adult teeth. That’s a lot of hardware moving around in a small mouth.

The first destructive wave hits around 4 months old. Here’s what’s actually happening under the gums: as those adult teeth prepare to push through, the roots of the baby teeth begin to dissolve. That process creates localized inflammation — essentially, your puppy’s mouth hurts. Chewing is how they cope with that pain. It applies pressure to the gums, and that pressure feels good.

I worked with a couple last spring who had a Golden Retriever puppy named Moose. At 16 weeks, Moose destroyed a sofa cushion, two remote controls, and a chunk of baseboard molding in the span of a single week. His owners were convinced he had a behavior problem. He didn’t. He had a mouth problem. Once we got him on a rotation of frozen chew toys and managed his environment better, the destruction dropped off almost overnight.

The Second Wave: Adolescence

Just when you think you’re in the clear, around 7 months old, the second phase hits. This one isn’t about teeth anymore — it’s about brain development. Your puppy is entering adolescence, and according to the,[1] this phase can stretch until 13 or 14 months of age. Your dog’s body is producing adult hormones, their confidence is growing, and their impulse control hasn’t caught up.

This is where a lot of owners panic. The sweet, compliant puppy suddenly seems to forget every command they ever learned. They’re not being stubborn. They’re being teenagers.

The Kitten’s Vertical Obsession

Now let’s talk about the other side of the destruction coin. Your kitten also goes through teething — 26 baby teeth replaced by 30 adult teeth — but teething isn’t what’s turning your home into a jungle gym.

Climbing is.

For cats, climbing isn’t a phase they grow out of. It’s a biological imperative. Kittens climb to develop balance, build muscle strength, and sharpen their spatial awareness. In the wild, a cat that can’t get up high is a cat that gets eaten. So when your eight-week-old kitten scales your leg like it’s a tree trunk, she’s not misbehaving. She’s doing exactly what her body is telling her to do.

The destruction happens when your home doesn’t give her appropriate places to direct that instinct. Curtains get shredded. Bookshelves become ladders. Your shoulder becomes a launchpad.

I had a client with a young Bengal kitten who literally could not stop climbing. The kitten scaled their floor-to-ceiling curtains daily, and one afternoon took a tumble that could have been serious. We installed a heavy-duty cat tree the next day, and within a week the curtain-climbing stopped. The kitten didn’t need to be “fixed.” She needed an outlet.

Managing the Chaos

Here’s where most people get it backwards. They wait for the destruction to happen and then react. The real strategy starts before your pet ever gets near the thing you don’t want destroyed.

Puppy-Proofing 101

For puppies, environmental management means removing temptation entirely. If your puppy can reach it, assume they’ll chew it.

  • Use baby gates to limit access to rooms with lots of furniture or wires.
  • Close doors to bedrooms and home offices when you can’t supervise.
  • Secure loose electrical cords behind furniture or inside cable covers.
  • Pick up shoes, socks, and kids’ toys — the top three choking hazards in most households.
  • Keep trash cans in cabinets or buy ones with locking lids.

Then give them something better. Frozen toys are your best friend here — the cold helps numb that gum inflammation we talked about. Look for stuffable rubber toys you can fill with peanut butter or plain yogurt and freeze solid. Hard nylon chew bones with appropriate texture work well too. The key word is appropriate. Avoid cooked bones, antlers that are too hard, or anything that could splinter.

Some owners use crates to keep puppies safe when they can’t be supervised. This isn’t cruel if it’s done right — dogs are den animals, and a crate becomes a safe space when introduced properly. But it’s a tool, not a solution. A puppy crated for 10 hours a day isn’t getting their needs met.

Kitten-Proofing: Think Vertical

For kittens, you’re not trying to stop the climbing. You’re trying to redirect it to places where climbing is allowed.

  • Invest in a tall, sturdy cat tree — the heavier the base, the better. Wobbly trees tip over.
  • Consider wall-mounted shelves or steps to create a vertical path around the room.
  • Place sisal-rope scratching posts near the furniture your kitten keeps targeting.
  • Move fragile items off high shelves. Your grandmother’s vase isn’t safe up there anymore.
  • Secure bookcases and tall furniture to the wall. Kittens will try to climb them.

The recent trend of “catification” — designing indoor spaces to be both cat-friendly and aesthetically pleasing — has exploded for good reason. When you give a cat appropriate vertical territory, they stop inventing their own.

What NOT to Do

Let’s clear up some bad advice that refuses to die.

Don’t punish the destruction. Old-school trainers used to tell people to scold their dog, bop them on the nose, or rub their face in whatever they chewed. For cats, the go-to was a spray bottle full of water. Modern veterinary behaviorists are unified on this: punishment doesn’t work, and it causes real harm. Your pet learns to fear you, not to stop the behavior. They’ll just do it when you’re not looking.

Instead, interrupt calmly, redirect to the appropriate toy or surface, and reward when they use it. That’s the loop. Interrupt, redirect, reward.

Don’t declaw your kitten. When the scratching and climbing gets overwhelming, some owners ask about declawing. Here’s what that actually is: the amputation of the last bone of each toe. It’s not a manicure. It fundamentally changes how a cat walks, jumps, and balances. It’s been banned in several countries and a growing number of cities for good reason. If scratching is the issue, regular nail trims and sturdy scratching posts solve it without surgery.

The Light at the End of the Tunnel

Here’s what I tell every overwhelmed puppy or kitten owner: this is a phase. It feels endless when you’re in it, but it’s not.

For puppies, the intense teething pain subsides once those adult teeth are fully in. The adolescent chaos mellows as hormones settle and training compounds. Most dogs start to show real maturity between 14 and 18 months. The [2] notes that consistent guidance during these developmental windows pays off for the rest of your dog’s life.

For kittens, the manic climbing doesn’t disappear — it’s who they are — but it becomes more controlled. As they mature and as you build appropriate outlets into their environment, the curtain-scaling and shelf-leaping fade. What’s left is a confident, athletic adult cat who uses their cat tree instead of your drapes.

Both puppies and kittens also benefit enormously from mental stimulation. Puzzle feeders, training sessions, scent games for puppies, and food-dispensing toys for kittens all burn energy that might otherwise go into destruction. A tired pet is a well-behaved pet.

The bottom line: your puppy isn’t broken. Your kitten isn’t evil. They’re babies doing what babies do — exploring the world with the tools evolution gave them. Your job isn’t to suppress that energy. It’s to give it somewhere safe to go. Set up the environment, stock the right gear, stay patient through the messy middle, and you’ll come out the other side with a companion who’s worth every chewed shoe and shredded curtain.

Sources

  1. Animal Humane Society — animalhumanesociety.org
  2. Regina Humane Society — reginahumanesociety.ca